HISTORY OF LUXURY JEWELRY IN FRANCE: How the Luxury jewelry industry in France has evolved?
HISTORY OF LUXURY JEWELRY IN FRANCE: How the Luxury jewelry industry in France has evolved?
CONTAINS:
Chapter I: Luxury Jewelry in France.
1.1: Origins of Luxury and its evolution
1.1.1: Key Dates
1.1.2: Luxury jewelry Industry nowadays
1.2: The use of jewelry
1.2.1: The wearing of jewelry originally
1.2.2: The ubiquity of jewelry
Chapter II: Luxury Jewelry French Market.
2.1: Characteristics Jewelry sector
2.1.1: The different actors
2.1.2: Average figures of the French Jewelry Industry
2.1.3: Market Structure
2.2: The changes in the Jewelry Industry
2.2.1: Changes in consumer taste and behavior
2.2.2: The increased competition
2.2.3: Dependence in regards the economic environment and the need for significant capital
Chapter III: Analysis of luxury jewelry brands: How they evolved. Out to the creation of the brand has today.
2.1: CHANEL
2.1.1: Presentation of brand
2.1.2: Creation and evolution of the brand
2.1.3: Analysis of brand’s strategy
2.2: MAUBOUSSIN
2.2.1: Presentation of brand
2.2.2: Creation and evolution of the brand
2.2.3: Analysis of brand’s strategy
Introduction
For over a thousand years, France produces the finest and most prestigious luxury jewelry in the world. The most famous brands as well as jewelers and luxury jewelers fame are grouped in this country that is part of the largest producers and manufacturers of luxury jewelry of all kinds and all styles.
The passion for jewelry in France is transmitted through the kingdoms of medieval times and those of the middle Ages. However, the wearing of luxury jewelry was specifically reserved to nobles and people with good social distinction and became a symbol of the upper class, the wealth and the high social status.
The craze for luxury jewelry in France has evolved by the time. The luxury industry has become very successful in this part of Europe. The best jewelry designers in the world are concentrated in France. In the past, their main customers were kings and queens all over the world. Nowadays, they are Hollywood stars and celebrities.
Jewelry adorn both the neck, the wrists and the feet of customers who love watches, bracelets, anklets, necklaces, rings, etc.. For a long time, wearing expensive and luxury jewelry meant wealth and prestige. That is the reason why it monopolized by the nobles who were assigned this privilege to the detriment of commoners who were not worthy to wear jewelry, especially luxury jewelry.
The laws of jewelry’s monopoly have yet been abolished since many years. At the same time, many jewelers and luxury jewelry such as Cartier SA (with more than 200 companies located around the world), Chanel, Mauboussin, etc appeared in the luxury market in France. In addition, there is a substantial change in the luxury industry including the manufacture and sale of jewelry in France, extending internationally through exports which grow up considerably.
It is precisely in order to detect the evolution of luxury jewelry in France that we have chosen to trace its history in this country with the theme of « the history of jewelry in France » memory. To deepen the theme of master (MBA) in Jewelry Brand Management, we opted for the following problem: « How the industry of jewelry in France has evolved?”
Our intention is to solve this problematic; that is precisely why we have shared our work in three distinct parts. The first entitled « Luxury Jewelry in France » is an outline of our work which introduces the origins of luxury in France, its evolution and its use. In the second part of our analysis, we will talk about the French luxury jewelry market, including the characteristics jewelry sector and the changes in the Jewelry Industry. The third part of our work is about the Analysis of luxury jewelry brands: How they evolved out to the establishment of the brand has today. We present two giants in the field of luxury jewelry in France (Chanel and Mauboussin) in this section.
Chapter I: Luxury Jewelry in France.
1.1: Origins of Luxury and its evolution
1.1.1: Key Dates
The French have perfected the art of jewelry for nearly a thousand years now. Wearing jewelry is linked to the medieval period during which the lords and rich and high social status people are distinguished by the value of the jewelry they wear. At this time, jewelry symbolized the possession of a good social status.
This concept led to the amendment of certain laws in favor of the rich. Indeed, they want to keep to themselves the privilege of wearing expensive jewelry and prohibit simple people such as commoners or farmers wear. This is called « sumptuary laws. »
The reign of Louis XIII in the seventeenth century has increased the craze for luxury jewelry and jewelry all sort. At that time, precious stones were intended to make jewelry for crowns and ornaments match the clothes nobles, royalty and the upper class.
Later, Cardinal Mazarin used jewelery and gems to get jewelry and transmits this practice toKing Louis XIV. The greatest jewelers of this period are Claude Ballin (1615-1678), Nicolas Delaunay (1646-1727) and many others.Jewelry has been successful times for centuries.
Then came the court erected by Napoleon in the nineteenth century. This court was intended to mandate the luxury and prestige among the people for. The norm is that all citizens are adorned with luxurious and do flaunt their wealth jewelry, which has benefited jewelers who were able to draw various benefits.
France is one of the most dominant countries in the manufacture and sale of jewelry before the Second World War. However, the years following the war were costly for the fruition of jewels and precious jewels have lost their value in the years 1940 until 1970 stones.1.1.2: Luxury jewelry Industry nowadays
Today, the luxury and jewelry industry is booming. There are no less than 300 jewelers in France, with brands such as:
– Alexandre Reza
– Boucheron
– Cartier
– Chanel
– Chaumet
– Christian Malaquin
– Ferret
– Fred
– Jean Dinh Van
– Mauboussin
– Mazlo Mellerio dits Meller
– René Lalique
– Suzanne Belperron
– Van Cleef et Arpels
France is a must for the luxury industry. There are different branches such as leather goods, silverware, jewelry, haute couture, automotive, etc. Luxury is a standard, a lifestyle and a sense of belonging to a certain social class.
Sector watchmaker is weakened by the sharp rise in commodity prices and the economic downturn. Therefore, there is a certain mutation consumer workshop production, and impacts on training. Sales watch and jewelery in France are relatively stable (5.2 billion euros in 2009, down 2% compared to 2008). However, they fared better than their European and American counterparts. Costume jewelery is in volume, 48% of sales (27% for silver jewelry and 19% for gold jewelry). The market can not be achieved without the support of 4,227 stores, organized in very small structures specialized in watches and jewelry.
Their numbers of 17,800 employees (of which 36% work in 45 companies with 50 employees or more) rose by 5.2% between 2005 and 2008. The construction includes 3,048 companies (11,260 sal.), Concentrated mainly in Ile de France and Rhône-Alpes (47% of the national total) are based, also in very small structures. They know concerns the transmission of knowledge (12% of employees have more than 55 years) and a declining enrollment (- 6.3% from 2005 to 2008). Facing recruitment difficulties compared to some skills, 20% of them have resorted to professional contracts, last year.
If Prada or Armani still belong to the founding families, if Rolex was sold to the Swiss Foundation Hans Wilsdorf, the luxury sector is financialised more. And Chanel, owned by the descendants of the banker, Pierre Wertheimer, or Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Boucheron and Balenciaga, met in the corporate business Kering of man François Pinault
In 1920 and 1930, Gabrielle Chanel known as the famous nickname « Coco » on the scene and forever revolutionized the world of fashion dress and expensive jewelry in France. Before the 80s, the jewelry was synonymous with high caste and social status. Today, they symbolize the fashion trends which are sometimes very short-lived.
At this time, the consumption of luxury goods is detected by almost 50% of the French population. However, these luxury goods differ between furniture, vehicles, jewelry, clothing, etc. It is mostly women who are aficionado jewelry, especially jewelry. They thrive on watchmaker, of leather goods, etc. However, the male is more attracted by this sector and became adept in terms of consumption and production.
The luxury market in France is dominated by two main entities: the world’s No. 1 LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy and over 50 other brands: Dior, Celine, Kenzo, Givenchy, Fendi, Tag Heur, Chaumet, Sephora .. .) and its prestigious rival PPR (Pinault Printemps Redoute with Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Boucheron …).
1.2: The use of jewelry
1.2.1: The wearing of jewelry originally
Originally, the jewels were designed for the nobles, the gentry, royalty, etc.. They symbolized the social class which was reflected through their port. The great ladies in the royal times, duchesses, queens and women rich men adorned themselves luxury jewelry, most of which were invaluable.
As we mentioned above, laws and leaders at that time prohibited the wearing of jewelry to simple people. It was felt they were not worthy enough to wear, as they were on the class of commoners or simple farmers.
Ladies of high rank liked to compare their jewelry with others to value their social rank deter. One can easily guess that a real contest was held between them and the value of the gem in question also represented the value of caste or social class to which belonged its holder.
1.2.2: The ubiquity of jewelry
The presence of jewelry on the local and global market is undeniable. Synonymous with luxury and sometimes fancy, their market is still very dominant and increasingly sophisticated. The jewelers are widespread and have subsidiaries, subcontractors and distributors worldwide.
Figures released by ecostat in April 2009 highlighted the pervasiveness of luxury jewelry in France and around the world:
Jewelery figures (source: ecostat April 2009)
Production:
– The production of jewelry, silverware of 1.9 million euros before tax in 2008 (+3% compared to 2007) with 3,048 companies and 11,260 employees concerned.
– 86.3% of companies have two or fewer employees.
– 5.5% of companies have more than 10 employees.
– The sectors concerned are mainly jewelry (2126 companies), costume jewelry (791), stones and beads (60).
Retail (source INSEE 2004)
– 6771 stores (19,771 employees)
– 24.3% of companies had 0 employees
– 61.3% of companies had between 1 and 5 employees
– 5.7% of the companies had more than 10 employees.
According to a study Eurostaf, French companies account for 36% of global sales of luxury ahead of U.S. companies (23%) and Italy (13%).
The French luxury including luxury craft, is exported very well on the international market, where competition is increasing. The European continent represents 36% of the global luxury market. The luxury market is booming in emerging countries (Brazil, Russia, India, China).
With an annual growth of over 10%, the luxury market was several years spared the turmoil in the global economy. But in 2009, due to the global economic slowdown, the sector recorded a decline in sales between 2 and 7%, particularly in the European and Japanese market.
– Chapter II: Luxury Jewelry French Market.
2.1: Characteristics Jewelry sector
2.1.1: The different actors
As we previously reported, the French luxury market is dominated by LVMH and PPR. However, independent manufacturers who start out gradually shade, subcontractors or distributors jewelers’ luxury and prestige, etc. are also detected. The world of French luxury, especially for jewelry, is also marked by the diversity of products (jewelry, watches, leather goods, etc.).
In 2012, the watch and jewelry market reported 5.2 billion euros. This figure is now less than half the sales of watches and jewelry (48.3%), gold jewelry 750 ‰, metalled or not, having substantially slowed down in 2012 under the weight of new and significant increase price of gold has led to transfers to 375 ‰ gold jewelry. Insignificant 2 years ago, this market segment has emerged in 2011 and is expected to increase significantly in 2013. For the record, two thirds of the amount of gold jewelry sold in the UK market are gold 375 ‰. The further decline in sales of gold jewelry 750 ‰ hit all anatomical families but especially jewelry hanging. The French market thus appears dominated by rings (44% of sales value).
Global sales of jewelry are estimated at USD 100 billion from 90% manufacturer unbranded. French jewelry is recognized worldwide for its creativity, quality of workmanship and elegance.
The French jewelers do not easily open their doors, both for safety reasons by confidentiality to the brands, their main customers. The Golden Triangle is located between the I., III. and the ninth arrondissement of Paris, near the Place Vendome.
But the luxury jewelry industry is not immune to the global economic crisis. The first affected are subcontractors of large luxury brands of the Place Vendome in Paris. The figures provided by the French Union of jewelry, silverware and trading stones and pearls (BJOP) are very disturbing: fifty Parisian workshops are particularly difficult. Their orders were down 70% and not less than 1,000 jobs would be threatened. In total, the sector includes 3,000 companies for a little less than 2 billion euros in revenue and 11,000 employees.
Apart from the cyclical crisis, the threat of the other traditional sector is the relocation of production facilities in Asia. Although this trend is less jewelry high quality, manufacturers are concerned about this trend. That is why they have created since 2006 the label « Joaillerie de France » real promotion tool for manufacturers, especially for export. It is an indisputable way to enhance and authenticate the French know-how in manufacturing jewelry, and to clarify the origin of manufacture.
Times are tough but France remains the stronghold of jewelry in the world. Centuries of history and designer jewelry are dreaming women (preferably rich) worldwide. The economic rise of China and its millions of « new rich » represent a significant new potential customers for the French jewelry. Large French companies market such Gay Brothers, Mathon Paris, Christian Bernard, SFM and Dorsey.
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Synalia, the largest cooperative of jewelers in France, is determined to restore its reputation. Known for its brand of entry level Julien Orcel, it creates a new, less offering cheap jewelry. Ozencia is intended to replace Megalithes and The Guild of Goldsmiths. The first two outlets are to be opened in Bordeaux (33) and Montceau-les-Mines (71).
Synalia, number two in the market in France and directed by Eric Holzinger, CEO, has:
– 280 associates operate 440 stores, including 170 Julien Orcel (100 million euros in sales in a total of 256 million in 2011).
– In 2011, sales of jewelry and watches amounted to 5.3 billion euros in France, up 3%, according to the National Federation of watchmakers, jewelers, jewelers and goldsmiths.
2.1.2: Average figures of the French Jewelry Industry
According to INSEE, the production of the watch and jewelery increased by 3% compared to 2010 and has raised nearly 2 billion euros HT turnover. Sell-side, these products have earned 5.5 billion euros in the same year. In detail for the production, watchmaking is 300 million – 80 million for only watches – the jewelery from 1.5 to 1.1 million for gold jewelry. The committee reported Francéclat breakthrough costume jewelery with 200 million euros.
France exports and re-exports to € 4 billion in 2011 to Italy, Germany and the United Kingdom for the first three.
For gold jewelry, Switzerland is the first customer. However, this is actually a transit country. France is the fifth exporter in the world. On the import side, € 4.8 billion has been spent. Switzerland remains our primary supplier of watches in value, China is her first unit. Italy is the first segment of the gold jewelry.
Sales of watches and jewelery amounted to up to 5.5 billion euros in 2011 in France, after three semesters of consecutive rise. This is the second consecutive annual increase after 2% in 2010, from the effects of the banking crisis in 2008-2009. The 2007 level is exceeded. The largest increase for silver jewelry with a 9% year on year.
In detail, watches generate nearly 1, 4 billion euros, or 14 million units at an average price of 97 euros. At the same time, gold jewelry securities amass 2.5 million despite the 23% increase in the price of gold. The pendant is interfering in the table with 500,000 euros. Silver jewelry also makes a great breakthrough deal with rising commodity prices. In total, jewelry amounted to € 3.8 billion in 2011, 67 million units. The average price is 57 euros.
Online sales are also very trendy and generate an emerging market and gradually visible.
Sales Production Sector watches, jewelry and silverware is estimated at 1.9 billion euros in 2010. Imports account for $ 3.7 billion, exports and re-exports of € 3 billion. The distribution of gold jewelry and silver, watches and other fashion jewelry and jewelry repair have a weight of 5.3 billion. On 1 January 2009, the number of distribution companies in jewelry watches is almost 4100 points of sale around 6700.
The jewelery of high-end French enjoys a prestigious image abroad.
Foreign demand (Indian Chinese, Japanese) emerging countries increased over the past three years more than 10 points. In 2010, 50.5% of sales production was made for export against 40% in 2007. Brands around the Place Vendome, Paris remain the central place of manufacture of jewelry. But brands regularly use for the manufacture of their jewelry to
Craft SMEs.
Despite this reputation, the trade balance in France in this sector is structurally in deficit (taking into account imports from low cost countries) and the number of establishments and employee headcount within the production has been declining since a ten years. The creation and design have importance in the watch and jewelry industry. The protective device models and brands strengthened to fight against counterfeiting. Jewelry made in France has, since 2006, a specific quality mark. This is an original manufacturing label « Joaillerie de France » launched by the French Union of jewelry, silverware, stones and pearls.
2.1.3: Market Structure
The jewels are segmented by their destination for guests (fingers Jewels, neck and wrist jewelry suspend) or according to their composition (gold, silver, costume jewelry).
In the main market analyzes, jewelry is generally segmented according to their composition.
Nearly half of the sales of watches and jewelry (47.4%) are for gold jewelry, follow watches (23.5%), and silver jewelry (12%). Sales of watches and jewelry were up 2% in 2010. This slight increase follows two consecutive years of decline (-2% in 2008 and again in 2009), due to the economic crisis.
In 2010, it was the silver jewelry and watches that have particularly benefited from the recovery with growth of 6% of sales: French bought more watches (69 million euros) and less gold jewelry (70 millions). Gold jewelry has indeed shown a further decline of about 2%. They are increasingly abandoned in favor of silver jewelry and fancy. These have a much lower average price, making them more accessible to consumers spending less.
With 62% of sales in 2010 Jewelry (68% in 2007), gold remains an elitist product, it affects only five clients. Gold jewelry (18K) totaled 16.8% of volumes (against 19.1% in 2009), while costume jewelry represents 49.3% of units purchased (13.2% in value) to jewelry silver, 28.5% by volume (27.2% by after 2009) and 17% in value.
If jewelry had a good stand in recent years, it should be noted that due to the crisis, the average purchase price of jewelry, as in 2009, was 57 euros, one of the lowest levels in at least 10 years. The crisis and soaring gold prices have driven consumers to silver jewelry but the craze for these products is also another factor.
According Lapipe Hubert, Director of Company 5 – CPDHBJO1, the craze for money is not the only consequence of the soaring price of gold, which hits a record high in early December 2009. It is not the mere fact of cheap silver jewelry. Nowadays, wearing jewelry concerns not only young women but all groups of people.
Watchmakers jewelers in town are widely represented since realized in 2010, with department stores more than 50% of the value distribution of jewelry and about 60% for watches. This traditional jewelry is so stable compared to large retailers, which it is slowing (12.1% and 4.8% for jewelry watches). Jewelry shopping centers have continued to progress in 2010 they totaled 18.5% of the value distribution of jewelry and nearly 25% for watches.
2.2: The changes in the Jewelry Industry
2.2.1: Changes in consumer taste and behavior
Before the 80s, wearing and purchasing of jewelry were exclusively reserved for the rich or people of high social status. Formerly, jewelry ornaments that were decorated, especially women. They wore them on special occasions such as dances popular at the time.
The reasons that people buy jewelry are many. Typical purchases are watches and jewelry (rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, anklets, etc.). Resurgence of female customers and a timid increase in male clientele is found. The most successful are those holiday periods: the end of the year, end of December (Christmas time). Purchases are saved for special occasions such as birthdays, weddings, and are most often used for the purpose of present or gift. However, some consumers buy jewelry « not only for special occasion ».
2.2.2: The increased competition
The competition in the luxury jewelry industry is now very tight and omnipresent. Indeed, there are no less than three hundred designers and jewelers in France. Most of these designers are located abroad and conquer old and emerging markets such as China or traditional markets such as India.
The optimization of the luxury jewelry implies necessarily both national and international presence. Moreover, it is not only to spread its brand, it is to make turnovers consistent both export and France to be the market leader.
To do this, you have to keep abreast of trends and know the trends of customers constantly. Not to mention constantly monitor competitors who are becoming more and more talented. In addition, it is also essential to produce, to present and propose original products having an exceptional quality. Constant innovation is also a « must » that all luxury jewelers should adopt. In addition, care must be taken to counterfeiting and copying. It should also have a large capital to the extent that raw materials are often imported.
2.2.3: Dependence in regard of the economic environment and the need for significant capital
The strong competition that exists in the field of luxury jewelry has developed a new trend: the dependence on economic and the need for meaningful capital environment. Indeed, competition spurs innovation, and innovation leads to a considerable supply of raw materials. However, domestic raw materials are never enough for luxury jewelers in France, so they must import from Asia, Africa and other European countries.
Though the field of luxury jewelry is a component on the economy; it does not represent a significant part on the economic capital of a country. It goes without saying that it depends in part on the economy of the latter. In this context, we can link the production of jewelry, but also the sale with the economic or territorial policy of that country. As an example, we can mention the political and economic crisis that affect the selling price of the jewelry.
The more the economy is poor, the more the cost of jewelry may drop. This is due to the fact that the jewelry and luxury jewelers are not only reserved for high society as was the case previously. Today, they are also available to other classes in order to diversify and compete. In this context, we must keep an eye on the economy in which you want to invest, but also in the French economy.
Apart from the economic difficulties, we must not forget the rising price of gold and the most rare and difficult supply. The difficulties associated with the relocation of factories to countries such as Asia are also taken into account. Indeed, luxury jewelry industries are now threatened by this concept, especially the loss of employees and the increase in counterfeiting, although luxury industries are not severely affected by this relocation.
Chapter III: Analysis of luxury jewelry brands: How they evolved. Out to the creation of the brand has today.
2.1: CHANEL
2.1.1: Presentation of brand
Chanel is an international chain of production and sales of luxury items such as high fashion, jewelry, ready-to-wear, fragrances, watches, etc.. It was founded by Gabrielle Bonheur Chasnel or « Coco Chanel » in 1910 and is one of the luxury homes of the most prestigious and the most dominant in the world.
For years, Chanel has combined elegance and prestige and adorned more of a celebrity, stars, politicians, citizens, kings in the past, etc.. The high quality of products and their finishing touches and added to their highly original design make Chanel a fixture in the world of fashion and luxury.
In 2010, under the leadership of Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer (grandchildren of Pierre Wertheimer associate Gabrielle Chanel) Chanel is sacred eighth fortune France with a turnover of 4.5 billion euros. The latest data indicate a recorded turnover of € 2 billion for the group in 2011.
The particularity of Gabrielle Chanel, through her creations, was revolutionizing high fashion by integrating the bodice of women simple and elegant clothing such as suits and dresses. It is also responsible for the popularity of Jersey and it advocates changes on the look of the woman in fashion dress incorporating floating sections, realizing skirts or dresses short or long, whose style is original and different trends at the time of his reign from Chanel.
Fragrances made by Chanel:
Fragrance for women | Fragrance for men |
· Bleu
· N° 5 · Coco Mademoiselle · Chance · Allure · Cristalle · Coco · N° 18 · N° 19 · N° 19 – Poudré – 2011 · N° 22 · Coco Noir |
|
Source : www.chanel.com
2.1.2: Creation and evolution of the brand
Chronological grid inspired by Chanel’s official website (http://inside.chanel.com/en/#!/timeline):
- 1883: Birth of Gabrielle Chanel
- 1910: Chanel Modes: Gabrielle Chanel opens her first shop at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, creating hats under the name « CHANEL Modes. »
- 1913: opening of a new boutique in Deauville, France.
- 1915: opening of the first Couture House of the group Chanel in Biarritz, France.
- 1918: opening of a Couture House at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris.
- 1921: creation of the first fragrance: CHANEL N°5 (symbol of feminity) by Ernest Beaux.
- 1922: creation of CHANEL N°22, the delicate and audacious fragrance
- 1924: creation of the First Line of MakeUp and creation of the “Société des Parfums CHANEL. This year, Gabrielle Chanel is in charge of the creation of the costumes for the French well-known ballet “Le Train Bleu”.
- 1925: creation of the fragrance “Gardénia”, made with camellia.
- 1926: creation of the fragrance « Bois Des Iles », the first oriental fragrance dedicated to women. The same year, Gabrielle Chanel created the “little black dress” which revolutionized women’s dressing fashion because of its simplicity.
- 1927: creation of the fragrance « Cuir De Russie » and creation of the First Line of Skincare
- 1931: at the personal request of Samuel Goldwyn, Gabrielle Chanel goes to Hollywood to create outfits for the leading stars of the silver screen.
- 1932: exhibition of fine jewelry: “Bijoux De Diamants”.
- 1935: Gabrielle Chanel is at the height of her fame. She employs 4,000 workers and owns five boutiques on rue Cambon in Paris.
- 1945: closure of the House of Chanel due to several damages after the Second World War.
- 1954: grand re-opening of the House of Chanel after 10 years of closure.
- 1955: launching of the “The 2.55 Bag”, release of the fragrance “Pour Monsieur” dedicated to men.
- 1957: creation of the legendary “Two-Tone Shoes”
- 1960: The fascination with CHANEL grows, as the most celebrated stars of the time—Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Jeanne Moreau—wear the latest fashions from CHANEL.
- 1970: creation of the fragrance “Chanel N°19”
- 1971: « May my legend prosper and thrive, I wish it a long and happy life! » Mademoiselle Chanel
- 1974: creation of the fragrance CRISTALLE, a fresh and invigorating fragrance inspired by Mademoiselle Chanel’s love of crystal.
- 1978: Creation of Chanel’s first Ready-to-Wear
- 1981: nomination of the famous perfumer Jacques Polge as the Master Perfumer of CHANEL. Launching of Antaeus, a men’s “Eau de toilette”.
- 1983: appointment of Karl Lagerfeld as Artistic Director for CHANEL Fashion, designer of all Haute Couture, Ready-to-Wear and Accessory collections.
- 1984: launching of the fragrance COCO, the first women’s fragrance created by Jacques Polge.
- 1987: creation of the first line of Chanel Watches “The première Watch”
- 1990: creation of men’s fragrance EGOÏSTE
- 1993: creation of the first Chanel Fine Jewelry and Watches
- 1996: creation of women’s fragrance ALLURE and of ALLURE HOMME which is for men.
- 2000: creation of the first Chanel sport watch J12
- 2001: creation of women’s fragrance COCO MADEMOISELLE
- 2002: The Métiers D’art : CHANEL acquires eight Parisian speciality ateliers to establish PARAFFECTION, a company consisting of Desrues (metalworker), Lemarié (flower and feather craftsmen), Maison Michel (milliner), Maison Lesage (embroiderer), Massaro (shoemaker), Goossens (goldsmith), Guillet (floral accessory expert), and Atelier Montex (embroiderer). In doing so, CHANEL supports the historic arts, and preserves the unique expertise of fashion’s traditional craftsmen.
- 2003: creation of the youthful fragrance CHANCE by Jacques Polge.
- 2005: Chanel at the Met: The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York honors CHANEL with a grand exhibition dedicated to the House of CHANEL.
- 2007: Chanel, Art As Universe: The art world celebrates CHANEL once again with the « CHANEL, Art as Universe » exhibition at the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, in Moscow.
- 2008: appointment of Peter Philips as the Creative Director of CHANEL Makeup.
- 2008: Mobile Art: Celebrated artist Zaha Hadid presents a traveling exhibition titled, « Mobile Art CHANEL Contemporary Art Container by Zaha Hadid, » featuring artworks inspired by the iconic quilted handbag, created by twenty different artists. Following the show’s tour through Hong Kong, Tokyo, and New York City, CHANEL donates the Mobile Art exhibition pavilion to the Arab World Institute, in Paris.
- 2009: creation of the luxurious line of lip colour ROUGE COCO.
- 2010: creation of men’s fragrance « Bleu De Chanel » which evokes an unexpected new vision of masculinity.
- 2011: Culture Chanel: The international art world honors CHANEL with the unveiling of « Culture CHANEL » at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) in Shanghai and at the National Art Museum of China (NAMOC) in Beijing.
- 2012: The Little Black Jacket: CHANEL celebrates the iconic CHANEL jacket with the launch of the book and photo exhibition, titled « The Little Black Jacket: CHANEL’s Classic Revisited” by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld.
Chanel fashion obeys a simple concept of elegance and simplicity, Chanel style is both essential and very rich. One of the famous phrases Coco Chanel said: « Fashion is fashion, style forever. » The designer has taken this common thread throughout her work. The strong character of Coco Chanel, but also immense pain as premature and accidental loss of her great love, give the creations of Chanel particular force. Always against the current, but always with style, Coco Chanel gave women free themselves from the dictates of fashion while remaining elegant.
The Chanel style revolves around black and white. Pearl necklaces and tweed suits dress almost masculine woman, freed from the constraints, but refined. The bottle of Chanel No. 5 also contains the idea of simplicity efficient, identifiable, but not showy. The specificity of Chanel also lies in its commitment to preserve the craft at the time of manufacture. The quality of Chanel products is impeccable and the brand also devotes particular care to its artisans as embroiderer Lesage or goldsmith Goossens. Indeed, it is up to redeem their workshops to enable them to continue their work in the conditions necessary for the manufacture of high-end luxury.
Chanel has forever marked the history of luxury with its various revolutionary creations and her perfume Chanel No. 5, which became the best-selling fragrance in the world, which is celebrating its 90th anniversary in 2011.
Today, Chanel is present on four luxury markets: high fashion, perfume, jewelry and of course the Chanel makeup line. It stands out in the world of advertising, creating twice, in 2004 and 2009, real short films in honor of the famous perfume Chanel No. 5.
Always artistically directed by Karl Lagerfeld, the brand expands worldwide. More than 3,000 people are working in France for the Chanel group.
Forty years after the death of the creator, the Chanel spirit is still present in parades and in the heart of fashion fans. Karl Lagerfeld has managed to take over the creation of the most famous perfume in the world combining elegance and prestige
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3: Analysis of brand’s strategy
A study done by the barometer Promise Consulting for Huffingtonpost.fr revealed that Chanel’s skincare brand is considered as « the most perfect » or only « ideal » by 53% of French women. Then follow the Clarins brand with 50% and 48% with Dior.
The Huffingtonpost believes this popularity by promising marketing strategies, particularly with more than effective innovation policies. Among them is the desire to get closer to the public and clients, opening boutiques and firms everywhere, as in Episode 2012 (200 researchers, technology partnerships with renowned MIT in Boston). Moreover, there is the influence produced by the icons serving as muses home with finesse and choose according to their charisma, their popularity with the public, but also their beauty and their ability to reflect the innovations of Chanel by the benefits they offer ..
The use of stars to stimulate the public is the winning strategy that propelled Chanel at the top of its art. In this context, Chanel always chooses major stars, especially those who are the most famous and most beloved of the moment, including men and women. This classic strategy has made Chanel a symbol of luxury. Each icon corresponds to each line selected perfume, clothing, a watch, etc.
Another equally effective strategy is to create commercials with the image of the product to promote. These films had a few minutes and put the stars in scenes from the 1990s until today. The famous advertising Brad Pitt, a famous Hollywood actor, is the one that marks the era of the revolution of perfume (Chanel No. 5 for men) since the year 2012.
Below is a list of onomastic Chanel muses and different lines associated with their performance (for perfumes, accessories, jewelry, makeup, etc.)
– 1950: Marilyn Monroe
– 1970-1980: Catherine Deneuve
– 1990: Carole Bouquet
– 1998: Estella Warren
– 2004 à 2008 : Nicole Kidman
– 2009 à 2012 : Audrey Tautou.
– Depuis 2012 : Brad Pitt
– 1980 : Inès de la Fressange : parfum Coco
– 1990 : Claudia Schiffer : eau de toilette Cristalle
– Vanessa Paradis :
- parfum Coco de 1991 à 1995,
- la joaillerie Chanel en 1993,
- les sacs Cambon en 2004 et New mademoiselle en 2005,
- le rouge à lèvres Rouge Coco et les sacs Coco Cocoon en 2010,
- le rouge à lèvres Coco Shine en 2011 et le catalogue 31 rue Cambon en 2013.
– 1996-1997 : Laetitia Casta : parfum Allure,
– 2002 à 2005 : Kate Moss : parfum Coco Mademoiselle,
– Depuis 2006: Keira Knightley : parfum Coco Mademoiselle,
– 2006 : Anna Mouglalis : parfum Allure Sensuelle,
– 2009 : Lily Allen : ligne de sacs Coco Cocoon,
– 2010 : Gaspard Ulliel : parfum Bleu,
– 2011 : Blake Lively : ligne de sacs Mademoiselle,
– 2011 : Edita Vilkeviciute : parfum n.19. Poudré,
– Depuis 2012 : Alice Dellal : ligne de sacs Boy Chanel,
– Depuis 2012 : Maïwenn : ligne de lunettes Chanel eyewear.
– 2013 : Laetitia Casta : ligne de lunettes Gala.
Source : www.chanel.com
2.2: MAUBOUSSIN
2.2.1: Presentation of brand
Mauboussin is a famous French jeweler, whose story begins in 1827 when the jewelry was born with Mr. Rock. Thereafter,in order to found his home, Rock joins a man named Jean-Baptiste Noury.
During the 1920s and 1930s, Mauboussin is renowned for its luxurious top jewelry in color and considered the professional jeweler color. At this time, the actress Marlene Dietrich is the brand ambassador. She enjoys so much the creations of Mauboussin she is making bracelets with diamonds and emeralds measure. This jewelry worn in the movie « Destry Rides Again » is a huge success for the jeweler.
In 1955, Mauboussin opened its flagship store on Place Vendôme, historic site of French jewelry. The brand will revolutionize the world of jewelry by displaying less expensive than its competitors, and the base price charged by the brand before price. Thus, Mauboussin hopes to make her jewelry accessible to the greatest number.
Mauboussin is known as the jeweler to costume jewelry luxury asymmetrical, original and unique. It is only when Dominique Frémont became head of Mauboussin, the company adopts the most fashionable lines while remaining timeless. The desire to democratize the jewelry brand through the development of commodity prices during promotional campaigns.
In 2007, Mauboussin opened a new shop on the famous Champs Elysées and open spaces dedicated in Spring throughout France. Its expansion was also marked by openings with international and flowering success.
Born nearly two centuries ago, in 1827, the house Mauboussin takes off with the Universal Exposition in Paris and in the 30s. The power of Art Deco inspired the creators of the time that require colored stones, hallmark of French jeweler.
The house has, moreover, from 1928 to 1931 three exhibitions around color: emerald, ruby and diamond. With these notoriety goes crescendo and Mauboussin is recognized as a specialist in color.
The post-war period and the shortage of gold will be difficult, the house starwith new techniques such as « work in hollow » or « gas pipe » to render more dynamic.
Mauboussin then settled in 1955 on the famous Place Vendôme one of the great names in jewelery.
Creative home created every decade a new style in perfect harmony with the times: costume jewelry luxury asymmetrical or disproportionate in the 60/70 contrast between light and dark and round shapes in the 80s…
In the years 1980-1990, Mauboussin became prosperous thanks to orders from Prince Jefri of Brunei Sultanate, which accounts for 80% of turnover. But the manna ceases in 1998 and the company is facing a major challenge. Dominique Fremont, Swiss Financial, is called to the rescue and acquire 70% stake in 2002 and all in 2005.
The new owner turns to Alain Némarq Doctor’s rescue company to get the company back on track leading to success.The change is radical and Mauboussin engages in a revolution, democratization of the jewel. And based on the observation that “Madame” is waiting for “Monsieur” to give him a jewel, since it is able to acquire one, but perhaps not at the same price.
Mauboussin adapts to this new demand, daring to offer a range of good value for money for ready-to-wear collections, rings with colored stones, sapphires, topaz … cut diamond or in a star, surrounded by diamonds appear and succeed to the best-selling home, Nadia ring created in 1980.
The instigator of this new collection is none other than the new artistic director Sophie Misrahi named in 2002 who comes from Van Cleef, Cartier and Fred.
In 2005, Mauboussin causes another earthquake in the world of jewelry by launching a solo « general public ». Although the ring with a diamond, the color and the quality does not meet the criteria of luxury (manufacturing some parts in Asia), it was a great success.
The French jeweler who has returned success is now looking to the future with confidence.
New shops are popping up on the biggest avenues of Paris, New York and Tokyo and the four-pointed star of Mauboussin is now displayed on pens, sunglasses and perfume bottles.
The sale of his creations is based on own-name boutiques associated with a highly selective distribution network which contributes to the recognition of Mauboussin in the world.
2.2.2: Creation and evolution of the brand
Chronological grid of Mauboussin inspired by the official website www.mauboussin.com
– 1827: Creation of the house by Noury Noury and Gentlemen Rock
– 1873-1878: The World’s Fairs in Vienna and Paris. Both exhibitions will participate in a burst of French jewelry and elsewhere in 1878 Paris, Mauboussin receives a medal.
– 1878: Medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris
– 1898: The House is Noury Mauboussin
– 1925: Dedicated to the Parisian jeweler Grand Exhibition of Decorative Arts in Paris: The great « Exposition des Arts Décoratifs » in Paris dedicated Mauboussin
as Parisian jeweler. During the very creative decade of 20, Mauboussin produced numerous and sublime pieces in the Art Deco style
– 1927: Georges Mauboussin Acquires Nassak, a diamond of extraordinary purity
– 1928> 1931: Organisation of three exhibitions around the emerald, ruby and diamond.
– 1928: emerald
– 1930: ruby
– 1931: diamond
These three exhibitions made Mauboussin’s reputation as an innovative jeweler and specialist in range of colors. Reputation remains until nowadays.
– 1940-1950: In the 40s and 50s, due to the war, gold became rare, and to hide its rarity jewelers will work in the « hollow » or « gas pipes. » The 50s saw the arrival of naturalistic themes and work around the movement and dynamics. The new wife of Charlie Chaplin was not chosen for the role of Scarlett in « Gone With the Wind.” To try to mitigate her disappointment, Charlin offered her a «rigid yellow gold with floral cabochon emerald surrounded by brilliant strap”.
– 1955: Opening of the Place Vendôme boutique: with windows overlooking the street and offering lower prices, while maintaining quality and elegance. Shop Mauboussin, Place Vendôme
– 1960-1970: During this decade unconventional, creative jewelry will follow the protest that took place in society, seeking excess disproportion and asymmetry.
– 80s: The house starts in watchmaking. Then, the creation focuses on the contrast between shadow and light. It aims to suggest forms of sensations. Narcissistic 80s Customer is highly sensitive to the « look ». Mauboussin creates round shapes jewelries, closed on themselves equal to the individualism of the time. The material put forward is the pearl which is found on one of the flagship products of this decade: « Nadia » ring.
– 1980: Creation of the ring « Nadia »
– 1988: Creation of a musical automatic line
– 1991: Birth of the Olympus ring. Its origins are linked to the architecture of antiquity. The proportions are studied, based on the volume and type of stone size: oval,
pear, square or emerald cut, to follow the canons of balance and beauty. Ring NadiaBague Olympus This frame is part of the « Eternal » of Mauboussin, representing a tribute to the gemstone
– 2000: Launch of the first fragrance for women
– 2002: The brand is bought by Dominique Fremont, Swiss financier. Sophie Misrahi succeeds Patrick Mauboussin as artistic director.
– 2003: Birth of the ring Peace Colours launch of the male version of the perfume: A collection that goes with the times. A jewel « fashion », baroque and genuine artistic work to the glory of the gaiety of the Artist jeweler. A new collection, as available in six different colors: aquamarine, tourmaline, green beryl, morganite, amethyst and citrine. The central stones 13 carats of sapphires hemmed unusual colors are set in a majestic and magnificent play of shimmering colors, adopting the iconic shape of the triangle, symbol of the divine.
– 2004: Launch of the new engagement ring Mauboussin: « Dream & Love. » Resolutely creative model that allows today’s woman wearing an engagement gem that fits into modern and not just in pursuit of the conveniences of another time.
– 2005: Launch of the Chance of Love, a line which that reinforces the passion Mauboussin to modern and independent woman. This collection quickly became famous, and was chosen in 2007 to illustrate the first campaign of a jeweler on television. The Champs-Elysées, the Japanese artist Aki Kuroda, the Maeght gallery, fully adorned the walls of his store and its display colors based on white caryatids reminiscent Matisse.
– 2007: Opening a store on the Champs Elysées. It’s also a key year for Mauboussin. This is the first full year of the new store on the Champs Elysees mythical avenue and the presence of the brand in a corner at Printemps Haussmann. Since then, other Spring welcome Mauboussin
through France. 2007 was also the year of change in the policy of international distribution with the direct takeover of stores in Asia.
– 2008: In this year, the big event is no doubt the September opening of the first store in New York on Madison Avenue (United States), in September. But 2008 is also the first accessories, with a line of pen and glasses with subtle design and infinitely Mauboussin.
In New York, the Mauboussin store takes the concept art gallery jewelry and exhibits his pieces of jewelry close to contemporary creations. Towering over several floors, the store is a temple of emotions.
– 2009: Opening a shop in Japan: Mauboussin has 5000 diamonds of 0.1 carats to 5,000 clients. This symbolizes the conquest of Asiepour Artist Jeweller. In June, Mauboussin moved to Tokyo in Ginza and mythical lequartier bousculela jewelery offering its first 5000 customers diamond 0.10 ct. Mauboussin also inaugurated its new store in Singapore in December in the famous Orchard Road.
– 2010 Mauboussin is needed in the world of watchmaking with the launch of its new pearl diamond watch and Love Day Rises and provides muse for the French actress Elsa Zylberstein. Mauboussin strengthens its presence in France with the planned opening of several shops and outlets.
For the opening of its store in Tokyo, Mauboussin joins again with the artist Aki Kuroda. The bright colors used by the latter reminiscent of the creative and innovative shop located on the Champs-Elysées mind. In Singapore, increasingly modern city, the store creates a warm atmosphere with feathers and aubergine tones it takes.
Since the creation of Mauboussin, the ring has also always been the highlight of the jeweler. Among the classics, there are Olympus, Alessandra. But especially Nadia, created in 1980 by Patrick Mauboussin. « The democratization of Mauboussin started with it, » said Alain Némarq. Sold 15,000 francs at the time, it was a great success very quickly. This model will remain until the 2000s a bestseller of the house, the decline in new variations each season.
Since Chance of Love, I Love You, You Crazy Love Ring or have joined Nadia at charts of best sellers. And now democratized in price and style, engagement ring represents 40% of turnover of Mauboussin. A share that is expected to increase this summer with the creation of a website that will be dedicated to him. A kind of « bar rings » as there was in 2004 a « cellar diamonds », where the idea was to choose a diamond « the size of its standard of living. »
The relaunch of the brand on this new basis has paid off.
The turnover of Mauboussin which fell to 12.5 million euros in 2003 rose to 25 million in 2006 and profits would be again at the rendezvous. Displaying its prices in its advertising, but also in its windows (a revolution in jewelry!), the house believes that women now represent 60% of people who push the door of shops (120 in France, 2 in own name Paris) against 10% before 2002. I must say that when a solitary gold and diamonds is offered at 950 euros, it becomes less intimidating.
To achieve these super competitive price,the brand broke another taboo by making some parts in Asia. Join the stars of the reality show, presenting JT is not considered demeaning. « This brings freshness to the brand and that’s fine, » says Alain Némarq today tabout media brand and universe creation. And there, the program is loaded. In addition to perfumes and watches, after collaboration with Converse in 2006, the four-pointed star of Mauboussin (its symbol) will appear in September on pens and sunglasses in 2008. A new perfume is also in preparation, less heady near expectations of new clients.
Among the other major upcoming projects, opening a store in New York is scheduled for June 2008. A return to the United States after the dark years that forced him to close his Mauboussin sign Park Avenue. In the meantime, the store on the Champs-Elysées was a spectacular fall redevelopment. We do not know more. Like its clients, Mauboussin is now a modern and contemporary brand that has learned to communicate and reserves its hype.
Mauboussin strengthens its presence in France with the opening provided by shops and outlets.
2.2.3: Analysis of brand’s strategy
Mauboussin with its positioning and marketing strategy very different codes of jewelry wants to democratize the jewelry sector by making its collections available to everyone.
The basic idea is to be accessible to all the jeweler and seducing women via a communication using a totally new ad formats for this sector, metro bus display. The goal is to offer affordable creative and fun product.
Diamonds may be forever, but it is not for a hundred and eighty years in the history of French jewelry without question. The last time Mauboussin is forced, it was in 1998. Loyal customer, Prince Jefri of Brunei Darussalam decided to significantly reduce its orders. The new house is tough to Place Vendome, which must then appeal to an investor to compensate for this loss of nearly 80% of its turnover. Businessman Dominique Fremont took control in 2002 by acquiring 70% stake in the family business. In 2005, he became the sole owner. Before him, four generations of Mauboussin have succeeded in command of the three workshops jewelry, rue de Choiseul.
Georges Mauboussin (which gives its final home in 1898 name) Patrick Mauboussin home near Bicentennial (whose career is recounted in a book published this spring (1) has had some great moments of glory. In 2002, charged by Dominique Fremont to straighten the house, Alain Némarq receives a clear roadmap: « We do not dust off, change language altogether. « The man who comes from the world of textiles and clothing, then engages a reduced lifestyle of Mauboussin: jobs are lost, workshops and shops closed … and changes into a strategy of democratization brand
- 2002: purchase of the brand by Dominique Fremont to Mauboussin family – arrival of Alain Némarq. Although the press has highlighted that he taught marketing at HEC, but I think much more interesting that he worked successively in Boussac (in charge of making and home decor) with Balsan (carpet manufacturer), YSL Men, Kenzo Man in Tehen (manufacturer mesh) and finally at Vestra (menswear). He has completely turned a loss making company into a « creative laboratory, a tool for development of industrialization techniques and machinery for the advancement and dissemination of brands. » The owner has installed at the head of a man mastering Mauboussin brands, production, fashion … and not a man from the luxury or jewelry. So a man who carries on it a new look – closer to the consumer than competitors like Robert Polet at Gucci Group.
- 2004: Mauboussin decides to always display the price of jewelry. This is a practice of mass-market, but it allows the customer to enter the store – and thus not to be confronted with the discomfort (shame?) Show that the price given by the seller is well beyond its means.
- 2005: launch of a solitary « general public » with a diamond whose quality does not meet the standards of fine jewelry. « We have cried foul, breaking the codes of luxury. Success of this ring was huge. We sold 40,000 in less than four years. »
- 2007: launch of the first advertising campaign on television. The stigma which was held in the media in the midst of luxury (who prefers the cinema – more noble) does not preclude any perfumes and beauty often happily use it.
- 2008 advertising campaign in the Paris metro (price displayed of course). Mauboussin therefore invests the symbolic place of mass-market … and scandal. But why would he subway scandal and not Decaux panels where we regularly see luxury brands appear?
- 2009: on sale for a week of 500 diamond rings limited edition to 450 € the unit … using the free press as a communication medium. This low price strategy is accompanied by significant investments (growth of the network of shops) and investment heavy communication (17% of sales where Bulgari is 11%).
The economic results are interesting to know: the CA brand rose from 12.3 to 35 million euros in eight years. My analysis model developments CA luxury brands shows that Mauboussin is located in the middle (like Tiffany to take another jeweler – but doing better than Hermes.) Where the rub is the profitability of the brand after losses in 2007, Mauboussin reported net income of 1% in 2008 and is 5% in 2012. The joaillères brands are rather on net income of 10 to 15% (13.8% in 2007 Bulgari – Tiffany 11%). The financial results are therefore a reflection of the policy of « affordable luxury » brand: low prices, lower than the industry margins, significant investments.
A strategy of « affordable luxury » works only if two conditions are met:
1. The volume is an appointment – this is what teaches us the example of Coach (eg brand « affordable luxury »), which has managed to spend $ 500 million to more than $ 3 billion in 10-year a profitability increased from 3% to 24%.
- The brand image is marked by emotion, desire, forms of rarity allowing customers who discover through its entry price « up » in the range towards more … expensive. In this regard Cartier is an example: the brand that was saved 30 years ago with the creation of Must, after having deleted… just the boost last November. There must be at an entry-level luxury and upscale … This is the « tension » between the two was born desire.
Mauboussin is still far away. Alain Némarq should be careful not to lose the traditional affluent brand (which must ensure Mauboussin still a significant part of its sales) that will not end up in excessive manifestations of the current submission or the very identity banal architecture of the new shops, or on the websites, none of which is a dream. Can I afford to remind him of the etymology of the word « luxury »: « luxus » means « do not grow straight », « deviant »… and gave as « lush » and « lust ». In my eyes the « deviance » here is not the brand but rather consumer behavior – which deviates from the « norm. » So we’re back to our starting point: by definition all luxury consumers in the world – far from being « normal » people – are « deviant. »
The jewelry market is experiencing a decline in sales (around 12% for 2009 according to the latest study by Bain) and a crisis of values related to the emergence of new consumption patterns. This market, estimated at $ 100 billion in 2009 globally and € 3.6 billion for France (figures Bath), now emerging, through two different strategies of marketing initiatives « scrambling » , « break », « democratize » a traditional fedora mainstream, discreet, with well-defined codes.
Decoding of the marketing and putting into perspective these initiatives strategies.
With positioning and marketing strategy of step with the codes of jewelry, Mauboussin wants to democratize the jewelry sector by making its collections available to the greatest number. The « basic concept is to sell a very creative and emotional product at an affordable price, » said Alain Némarq. He wants to become the fashion jeweler, the jeweler and accessible for all. With a repository of fun, heart stroke, impulse buying, it rejuvenates its target and is primarily women.
Mauboussin then applied to rupture the entire product mix:
– The product offers: collections modeled on the ready to wear collections, names used very young, dynamic (Maw love Chance of Love, You are the salt of my life, Marine Star, Love of my life, my Love Love, Crazy for You), different sizes and colors stone design easier and more affordable.
– The price: with a ring from 550 € in the collection « You are the salt of my life » for a diamond of 0.15 carats, the prices are affordable for the majority and a total break with pins jewelry. The margins are also different because 15 to 20% lower than normally practiced in the industry.
Shop Mauboussin
– The distribution does not break in the choice of the circuit but also in the design of shops that is resolutely modern, close, open, vibrant with color codes upset (black and white and color buttons). The choice of stores located on the Champs Elysees is not trivial because it coexists with the chains of fast food on one of the most influential and affluent avenues.
Advertising metro Mauboussin
– The communication with the display in 2004, the price of its products on its campaigns, Mauboussin created in 2008 stunned the industry by « down the jewelry on the street » with a campaign in the Paris metro.
He also launched a TV campaign (2007) and now spends 17% of its turnover in advertising. Mauboussin decides to use the codes in the « consumer » in its communication strategy.
It also organizes events (breakfast with donuts, special collection Roland Garros, 0.1 carats of diamonds offered at 5000 Japanese) which by their construction break with the entertainment press and public relations usually organized.
In terms of results, the goal seems Mauboussin made in 2008, in fact, sales totaled 30ms of € up 7%, and were multiplied by 2.5, the expected revenue for 2009 is $ 36ms (while the overall market recorded an estimated 12% decrease). It performs parallel another 1/3 of its revenue with jewelry over € 30,000.
Conclusion
The luxury industry in France has experienced a rapid development since more than a thousand years where the jewelry was worked in this country. France is today among the greatest producers of luxury jewelry in the world.
Luxury jewelry are often overpriced, sometimes sold only a few copies, which are experiencing a hit with celebrities from film, politics and rich people themselves.
If the French have a taste for luxury, it is the same for brands that combine beauty, authenticity and refinery products to attract different audiences at once. Previously, luxury jewelry was exclusively reserved for lords, nobles, and the people of the upper class or royalty. They symbolized then caste and high social rank.
In those days, luxury jewelry and other sorts of jewelry were forbidden to those of lower rank as defined by the « sumptuary laws » . Later, Napoleon decreed luxury and display of mandatory wealth, favoring the emergence of jewelry. Therefore, different industries luxury jewelry have emerged.
The prestigious brands Chanel and Mauboussin are part of the most dominant industries luxury in France, but also in the world. Studies presented in this paper show that even Chanel is the most popular brand of French at the moment. Mauboussin and Chanel are specialists in luxury goods: clothing, jewelry, leather goods, etc. These houses are making phenomenal business figures and are very close to the customer.
To achieve this, they use common or specific marketing strategies. To reach its target audience, for example, Chanel uses stars as icons and muses of its brand. Contracts between two parties signed, after which the star selected year as Egeria poses for the house (on commercials, television, magazines, etc..) This classic but effective strategy has always benefited Chanel which is now a legend and a benchmark for jewelry.
As for Mauboussin,he devotes his entire strategy on the « democratization of luxury ». In other words, the brand targets a wide audience by making available to all the luxury, thus offering luxury products at reasonable prices. This strategy is effective, however, it is not without flaws. Indeed, some doubt today if group Mauboussin’s luxury jewelry has really its value considering its low price. Moreover, it even tends to wonder if the quality of the products is actually consistent with the luxury claimed, and if Mauboussin has not regressed in its business and reputation.
In addition to these strategies, these two great brands also have the privilege to introduce around the world, increasing their turnovers and their coats of popularity. However, they also face various difficulties. Besides the fact that Chanel has closed its doors at the end of the Second World War and did re-opened nearly ten years later, she and Mauboussin are still suffering from the different crises in politics and the economy. In addition, the lack of raw materials on the market complicates the situation further. Not to mention the increased competition, counterfeiting, the constantly changing needs of consumers, etc.
Today’s consumer’s love and innovations have more « eccentric » tastes than before. However, the changing trend is that consumers vary the « new age » style to that of « old age. » We also note the increase in male clients, tending towards the production of male items at the same volume as more feminine items.
All these data show the evolution of luxury jewelry over time, especially now. However,does this development allow to propel the sector of luxury jewelry at the top of the economic chain, so that it becomes a strong link and can be considered as a more significant actor in the economic development of France?
Appendices
- Some legislation on the exercise of the profession of jeweler, jeweler and watchmaker
Activity watchmaker is retailing precious metal jewelry, watches, clocks, alarm clocks. The jeweler-watchmaker can also make itself unique pieces or small amounts of metal. A repair service is usually associated with the activity, whether outsourced or not. The jewelry fashion jewelry pieces which are made from materials of lesser value can be distinguished.
❚ Access to the profession
– Law No. 2005-882 of 2 August 2005 in favor of small and medium enterprises to amend the Act No. 96-603 of 5 July 1996 on the development and promotion of trade and crafts states that those n do not use more than ten employees and engaged in the business of jeweler-watchmaker must be registered in the trades. The registration in the trades does not exempt, if applicable, the registration in the Trade and Companies Register.
– Decree No. 2006-80 of 25 January 2006 amending Decree No. 98-247 of
April 2, 1998 on the craft skills and trades directory specifies that the registration in the trades, which gives the title of architect is subject to proof of a CAP (Certificate of Professional Competence) or a BEP (vocational study), or registration in the trade for at least six years.
The title of « master craftsman » requires for its patent control in the field of employment, or a related business, and two years of professional practice. However, for professions whose practice is regulated, if no degree or approved exists in the field of employment and related trades, a craftsman can be proved by a certificate or a certificate of professional competence required for this exercise. Misuse of artisanal skills result in sanctions up to the closure of the institution. The artisan titles and « master craftsman » is awarded by the President of the Chamber of Trade.
– Law No. 2006-911 of 24 July 2006 on immigration and integration specifies the conditions for carrying on a trade, business or profession by an alien craft. Article L313-10 of the Code of Entry and Residence of Foreigners provides that any natural or legal person residing in France and willing to engage in industrial, commercial or artisanal profession shall request from the prefect of the department, a temporary residence permit authorizing the exercise of a professional activity.
– The decree of 12 September 2007 lays down the list of documents. Article L122-1 of the Commercial Code, supplemented by Decree No. 2007-1141 of 26 July 2007, states that any foreigner, not resident in France, but eager to pursue an occupation, must report the prefect of the department or consular authorities in his country. Citizens of the European Union or a State party to the Agreement on the European Economic Area (Norway, Liechtenstein and Iceland) or the Swiss Confederation are exempt from this statement.
- Characteristics of the sector (data)
YEARS | PRODUCTION | IMPORTS
|
EXPORTS
RE-EXPORTS |
DITRIBUTION |
2010
– Figures
– Numbers
– Numbers of producers |
Watches : 232 Jewelry : 1709
Watches : 2 920 Jewelry: 9 101
Watches: 90 Jewelry: 2 854 |
Watches: 1498 Jewelry: 2243 |
Watches: 1 109 Jewelry: 1 923 |
5 300
|
2009
– Figures
– Numbers
– Numbers of producers
|
Watches: 231 Jewelry: 1 565
Watches: 3 161 Jewelry: 9 544
Watches: 101 Jewelry: 2885 |
Watches: 1 268 Jewelry: 1771 |
Watches: 922 Jewelry: 1538 |
5200 |
2008
– Figures
– Numbers
– Numbers of producers
|
Watches: 286 Jewelry: 1 888
Watches: 3 801 Jewelry: 11 273
Watches: 108 Jewelry: 3 048
|
Watches: 1 404 Jewelry: 2062 |
Watches: 1 022 Jewelry: 1801 |
5 300 |
Source : Comité Francéclat – Mars 2011 / INSEE (Production) – Douanes Françaises – Société 5 et Société
GfK.
Distribution’s circuit of jewelry-watchery: (In french)
Valeurs en Millions d’Euros
|
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 |
C.A. T.T.C. (Ensemble du marché français) | 5 200 5 400 5 300 5 200 5 300 |
Bijoux en or 750/1000, empierrés ou non | 2 775 2 825 2 687 2 582 2 512 |
Bijouterie en ville et grands magasins |
52,5 % 52,9 % 52,4 % 51,1 % 50,7 %
|
Artisans, ventes directes et VAD1 | 5,9 % 16,3 % 16,3 % 17,5 % 18,7 %
|
Bijouteries de centre commercial
|
17,2 % 17,2 % 17,9 % 18,7 % 18,5 % |
Grandes surfaces | 14,4 % 13,6 % 13,4 % 12,7 % 12,1 %
|
Montres | 1 102 1 225 1 242 1 179 1 248
|
Bijouterie en ville et grands magasins | 59,7 % 59,4 % 60,0 % 59,2 % 59,4 %
|
Bijouteries de centre commercial | 22,7 % 23,1 % 22,4 % 24,4 % 24,9 %
|
Grandes surfaces | 5,7 % 5,2 % 5,9 % 5,3% 4,8 %
|
VAD et autres circuits | 11,9 % 12,3 % 11,7 % 11,1 % 10,9 %
|
Bijoux en argent |
509 542 569 607 644 |
Autres : or 375/1000, plaqué, fantaisie, bracelets,
réveils, réparations… |
800 800 800 800 900 |
Source : Comité Francéclat – Mars 2011 / INSEE (Production) – Douanes Françaises – Société 5 et Société GfK.
Bibliography
Books and publications :
- CASTAREDE J. (2003) : Le luxe. 3ème édition mise à jour. PUF, (Que-sais-je ?; 2687)
- BERGERON L. (1998) : Les industries du luxe en France. O. Jacob.
- « Le bénéfice de Chanel croît en beauté», Challenges, no 347, 30 mai 2013, p. 3
- « Le quart de siècle de Chanel», L’Express, no 3198, 17 octobre 2012, p. 132
Some market researches:
- Secteurs 700 : Haute couture et créateurs de mode, Xerfi, 2003
- Secteurs 700 : Maroquinerie et articles de voyage, Xerfi, 2003
- Secteurs 700 : Prêt à porter de luxe, Xerfi, 2003
- Le secteur du luxe dans le monde, Eurostaf, 2002
- Secteurs 700 : Fabrication de bijoux, Xerfi, 2002
- Secteurs 700 : Parfums et cosmétiques, Xerfi, 2002
- Les groupes mondiaux du luxe, Eurostaf, 2002
- Les marchés du luxe pour homme, Eurostaf, 2001
- Secteurs 700 : Foie Gras, Xerfi, 2001
Websites :
- http://www.industrie.gouv.fr/FranceTech/
- http://www.abc-luxe.com/
- http://www.lefigaro.fr/societes/2012/06/21/20005-20120621ARTFIG00892-mouvements-en-vue-dans-les-chaines-de-bijouteries.php
- insee.fr/sessi/publications/dossiers_sect/pdf/mode.pdf
v http://www.chanel.com/fr_FR/Joaillerie/
v http://www.chanel.com/fr_FR/Joaillerie/recherche
- http://video.planet.fr/beaute-mode-en-france-chanel-marque-preferee-des-francaises.374387.12238.html
- http://inside.chanel.com/en/#!/timeline
- http://www.vogue.fr/thevoguelist/articles/chanel-haute-couture-et-parfums-de-luxe-a-la-francaise/8691
- http://www.mauboussin.com/
- http://www.puretrend.com/marque/mauboussin_b4294721089/histoire_i1/1
- http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/mauboussin-joaillier-pour-toutes-290607-9228
- http://www.mauboussin.fr/univers/histoire,1827-1950.1_1.php
- http://www.mauboussin.fr/univers/histoire,2009-2010.6_1.php?sid=51e04757643f0
- http://fr.viadeo.com/fr/groups/detaildiscussion/?containerId=00214bjy33ex0gi0&forumId=002odzkxz5f2mio&action=messageDetail&messageId=002okod0n3syg6o
Nombre de pages du document intégral:53
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